Florent Plageoles now vinifies this wine with 50% carbonic, and the result is all the brighter and more gluggable for it. Yields are kept low, bringing flavour and intensity, and the aging occurs only in cement tank with no filtration. It’s another vibrant, bright and juicy wine and shares similarities with the Contre Pied, before deviating down a slightly darker fruit path with an emboldened savoury spine. A reductive appearance to start, this quickly makes way for red- and blue-fruited freshness, crushed rock minerality and assertive tannins that evoke a tactile response. Compounding the complexity, there’s notes of green herbs and salinity. It finishes with accomplishment and class. “Du glouglou pour le printemps,” (for glugging in the springtime) says Bernard Plageoles, father of Florent and Romain. But why stop at springtime?oury.